A do-it yourself DCC BOOSTER FOR DCC-MB AND TNT

Construction of a PC computer based DCC System

WinonaShops Home Page

TNT Software ( The QBASIC software to operate the DCC-MB system )

Email to TNT author

All DCC systems will have some form of the following components:

Software (A description of TNT the QBASIC software to operate a DCC-MB system )
User interface ( control knobs, joysticks, Infra-Red remote )
Power supply ( supplies voltage to Booster and command station )
Booster ( converts logic level signal to track voltage level )
Command Station ( digital signal generator and command interpreter )
Central Processor ( CPU, programmable logic , or a computer of some type )
Train Detection ( completes all the requirements for scheduled operation )
JAVA MODEL RAILROAD INTERFACE TOPICS

A pretty good Parts List

This web page will show you how to build a DCC system. You will learn a lot about DCC, hardware, software and construction techniques. You will have a useful reliable system when you are finished, and you will have the ability to improve it even more if you wish. You won't have it done today .... but it will be worth the wait, and you'll be learning more and more as you go.

The system described here was designed by Chuck Heller and complete documentation for it is available on the Tillorps website! This website shows how to actually build it. I hope this will be helpful in getting you down the path quickly, and without too much frustration. I have tried to be as accurate with my descriptions as I can be. If you have any suggestions or problems with any portion of this article please do let me know , and I will correct and improve the information presented here.

How long will it take to build? How much will it cost? Will it actually work?

Much of the time to build will be obtaining parts. It will take several weeks to build, in your spare time, but you will learn alot about electronics, digital systems, programming, and how PC's operate. You will have a system you can repair when neccessary. I would think you could get the system finished in a month or two including time to obtain the parts. I have provided links and bills of material to help you with this.

The actual cost will be less than other commercial DCC system with IR control. I am confident you can build the system for under $200 (year 2009) and costs can be held down if you don't require project boxes, but they do make a more elegant system.

Yes, it will actually work! If you arrive at a point where you cannot get it to work, reinspect you connections, test your supply voltages, measure the values at the indicated test points, and then if you still cannot get positive results, consult a technician who has access to an oscilloscope. Trade schools, vocational colleges, high schools, often have electronics laboratories and many students that will be able and interested in helping. Most times, though, careful inspection and review will solve your problems.

Click here for a brief description of How does it work?
The system runs from DOS. You do not need a Pentium dual core to use it .... use a 386, 486 or even a 286 AT ! You can find DOS and Quick BASIC on the internet for free download. You can get these anytime before you're finished building the hardware. To use joystick paddles you will also need a sound card or game port. I use a Sound Blaster 16, but most any will do. For the most part, they are all compatible. You will only be using the joystick capability. I also use mine to play steam sound CD's while I run trains. I have it hooked up to my stereo so it can really chuff !

The method I describe here does not require laborious drafting of traces, chemical etching, drilling hundreds of tiny holes. It is built from readily available pre-perforated circuit boards that carry ready made power and ground traces, and component solder pads. The boards are available from Radio Shack. The layout of components minimizes the number of wires that need to be stripped and soldered, and by using some components to make connections the number of jumper wires is greatly reduced.

First, make a new folder (or directory) to put the download files in. You can download the information required on this sites download page, and by clicking on, and copying images on this site. You can also download Michael Brandt's, Chuck Heller's and Tillorp's systems for additional information. Then decompress what you have downloaded. You will not be needing the software for some time. What you want now is the schematic. Print it if you can. You will be refering to it often. I often find it useful to have my main computer running as I build, for reference, for note keeping, and web access when I need it. Chuck's system is wonderful. It has only four Integrated circuits ( IC's - chips), it plugs into the parallel printer port, and has only a minimal amount of peripheral electronic components ( resistors, capacitors, diodes, and potentiometers).

Place an order for the components you will need from Jameco, Digikey, Mouser, AllElectronics, or others. The parts list can be found HERE ! I usually buy at least two of everything, just in case I make a wrong connection, or bend the leads so bad I can't insert the IC into the sockets. Definitely DO use sockets on all the IC's .. you'll be glad you did ... and buy the good ones with machined pins, they are much more reliable and will only increase the price by a few cents. It is nearly impossible to desolder an IC without messing up some other traces ... so use sockets and avoid problems down the road. Plus, if an IC ever fails (they rarely do) .. it's a simple matter to plug in a new one in about 30 seconds.

Decide on which, if any, project boxes you need. Go out to Radio Shack and buy your project box, circuit board, some cables for your joystick, and the Infra red components if you want to build that too. Then, you'll want to pick up an IR remote from K-MART or TARGET, or whatever suits you. I use an RCA System Link 4 for about $8 to $10 . It is possible you have a TV IR remote lieing around that you can use on train nights. Better than watchin' TV.

You will need some fine .032 dia. rosin core 60/40 solder (not acid core), and a small soldering iron with a small sharp tip, I've heard of these refered to as 'Princess' models, they are 25 watts I think .. you do not need or want the big 35 watt soldering irons for this project. An integrated circuit extractor and an IC inserter are highly recommended to avoid bending the chip leads. These are available from Radio Shack or Digikey. You may find that you will also want a 'solder sucker'. This is a hand actuated spring loaded pump that allows you to suck up molten solder when you have made a mistake or applied too much solder. And, finally, you will want to get a VOM, a Volt Ohm Meter. Any reasonably priced volt meter will work for you. A VOM for 10 to 20 dollars is fine. Radio Shack makes several VOMs. I do not recommend the low cost AC ammeter type with loop amp measuring circuit attached. It is cumbersome to use, requires the use of multiplication factors to interprete the readings. Use the next more expensive meter with direct reading scales and a simple probe set. It is more versatile for model railroaders and general utility work. You will use it to trace circuits, test capacitors and resistors, check batteries, and test the output of your power supplies and voltage regulators.

Start by making the throttles, and then the IR Remote circuit, this will give you a chance to hone your soldering skills before you begin construction of the DCC converter card. When the throttles are done and the IR circuit built , you can begin playing with these before the entire system is completed.

Next, build the power supply and the Booster, this will give you additional experience with soldering before you begin the logic board. You should have adult supervision when building and testing the Power supply, or you can ask an electronics technician or possibly a science teacher at school for advice. This website will be a good guide as to what is required, you can refer to it when asking questions. Also, you can buy ready to use power supplies that will work fine. I will list a few later in this article.

Then, build the logic board, or the Command Station. This is Chuck Heller's Centronics to DCC converter card. By refering to this site and to the notation printed on the circuit card, and with some careful workmanship and the skills you developed building the previous items, you will be able to build the logic card in about two evenings, or about 3 to 6 hours.

I have downloaded Michael Brandt's software, Chuck Heller's software, and Tillorp's software. All are useable with this hardware project! I also have written my own system, TNT, in QBASIC which you are free to use. This provides a valuable programmer's interface that doesn't require knowledge of C programming language. My program is called TNT, for Trains and Terminals. It includes a scenario learn and scenario run option. You can have your computer run trains, while you watch, or run your own locomotive at the same time!

One final word before you get started ... I use a three ring binder to keep all my listings, schematics, purchase orders, hand written notes, and all the papers involved with the construction, all in one place. This saves time and will provide valuable documentation of your system!